How to wax skis

Taking your skis to the shop for a wax – a somewhat essential (and time-consuming) task on your in-resort (and mid-season) to-do list. However, wouldn’t it be awesome if you could save some time (and money) by waxing your planks at home? Well, luckily for you, Dope Mag is here with another quick-fire, bookmark-worthy guide to help you perfect the art of ski waxing.

Yes, waxing makes your skis glide faster and turn easier, but it also increases base density and helps prevent damage. So, how often should you wax your sticks? The loose rule is around every seven to ten shred days. There’s no such thing as waxing too often, though. Oh, and what pairs perfectly with fresh wax? Fresh styles, of course! Drop into our latest stylish, tech-packed collection below. 

Men's ski clothes

Women's ski clothes

Five steps to perfectly waxed skis 

1. Get your tools together

The key to any successful ski wax is having the right tools. Start by getting yourself an all-temperature wax (also known as a universal wax). This versatile wax is designed to handle all snow conditions and is a good fit for everyday skiing! Know you’ll be ripping in specific conditions, such as mid-season cold pow or warm spring slush? Reach for temperature-specific wax for more precise performance.

Next, you need a ski-specific waxing iron to help spread the wax evenly without damaging your skis. Don’t cut corners by using your regular clothes iron. One: the wax is likely to stick to it. And two: clothes irons often have fluctuating temperatures, increasing the chances of wrecking your precious planks. You also want a plastic scraper and brushes to finish the job (these can be nylon, bronze, or horsehair). If you’re green to waxing, you can typically find these tools in pre-assembled starter kits. 

And on top of these, you can also grab a base cleaner and cloth – they help remove old wax, dirt, and grime so the fresh wax bonds properly with your skis.

Once you’ve gathered all the tools, it’s time to secure your skis in a vise so they don’t move around. Oh, and don’t forget to grab yourself a pair of industrial-strength rubber bands. They’re ace for holding your ski brakes out of the way. 

To help you shop the essentials, here’s a quick roundup of the must-have waxing tools:

2. Prep your skis for waxing

Now, it’s time for the all-important prep. To do this, retract the ski brake by depressing the pedal. The brake arms should shoot up in the ready-to-ride position. Loop industrial-strength rubber bands around the binding heel piece and stretch it between the brake arms to keep them secure and above the base when waxing. 

Work outside, in a garage, or in your house (although lay down a tarp or dust sheet to catch wax flakes and protect your floors). Just make sure your workspace is well-ventilated to avoid inhaling any nasty fumes. Once you’ve found a spot, flip the skis base-up and place them in your vise. Don’t have one? Just use a table and two stacks of book, or blocks of wood to support your skis. 

Next, spray base cleaner and wipe your skis clean with a cloth. This step removes any grit salt, grime, or chemicals that might have accumulated. Is your base visibly dirty? Use a wire brush to get rid of any debris, dust, or dirt. Some riders also use an edge file or gummy stone at this stage. This is an optional step, but it helps rid the edges of any burrs, so everything’s smooth before waxing. 

3. Apply the wax

Time for the big step: applying the wax! Heat your iron to the correct setting in line with your chosen wax. You’ll often find instructions and the ideal temp range on the product box. Once the iron has reached temperature, hold your iron vertically above your base so it’s hovering a few inches off the surface.

Next, press the wax bar lightly against the hot iron. This starts the melting process. Notice smoke? That’s not a good thing and you have an overheating problem on your hands. It’s easy to fix, though. Simply dial your iron temperature down a notch or two. 

Once sorted, drip the wax down the ski’s length, working from tip to tail with even spacing between each drop (around one inch/2.5 cm apart). Keep moving the iron so the wax dots the entire base. However, don’t go crazy – you’ll likely need less wax than you think. Don’t be scared to move the wax block on the iron, too – burnt fingers are never fun the next day! 

4. Iron the wax into the base

Once you’ve dripped your wax, it’s time to work it in! We do that by running the iron smoothly ‘n’ slowly over the wax in small circles with light pressure. Continue this movement from tip to tail until the wax is fully melted and you’ve distributed an even layer across the base. Is an area looking super dry? Just add more wax. 

Keep the iron moving! This prevents overheating in any area. If you let the iron sit in one spot for too long, then you’ll risk melting the base and even damaging the core. Our top tip? Hover your hand over the base. If you can sense it’s way too hot to touch, you need to maneuver the iron around the ski faster. 

Next, leave the wax to cool for 30 minutes. Try to avoid placing your skis out in the snow to cool more quickly. That’s because sudden temperature changes can cause the wax to come out of the base pores. Instead, leave everything cool off at room temperature and check out Netflix’s ‘30-Minute Laughs’, get some fresh air, or start cleaning up your workshop. Alternatively, you could watch the wax cool. But if you do, you’ve probably got too much time on your hands …

5. Scrape, brush, and buff

The last step is testing your finger strength. And by that, we mean scraping your skis! So, apply the edge of the plastic scraper to the base. Then, working from nose to tail, apply firm but gentle pressure as you push the scraper along the ski length in overlapping continuous strokes. Do this until no visible wax remains. Remember to scrape your edges with the scraper end, too! 

Surprised at how much wax is scraping off? Don’t panic – that’s actually a good thing! We want the wax to be set into the base rather than sitting on top of it. So, you know you’ve actually done a good job when you see a shiny sheen on your skis rather than a super-thick layer. 

Then, it’s brush time! The purpose of brushing from tip to tail for a couple of passes is to remove any unbonded wax from the plastic pores of your base. And it’s always handy to have a few brushes in your quiver. Start with a stiff brush – such as a bronze brush – to revive the base structure and increase your speed on the hill. Next, use softer brushes – such as a nylon or horsehair brush – to further lift residual wax, reveal more structure, and polish your skis. For an ultra-smooth, glossy finish, buff with a soft cloth. Congrats – you’re now ready to ride.

Wrapping up 

Boom – now you can wax your skis yourself! Okay, it might take a little practice. However, soon enough, it’ll become second nature, super satisfying – and almost a little zen. Plus, you’ll easily outrun your crew on the slopes. Yew!

Want to show us how it’s done? Or impart your tips ‘n’ tricks to other riders? Join our Dope Snow Community Facebook Group, full of like-minded skiers and snowboarders, Share your knowledge, take part in community meetups, and keep an eye out for exclusive collection previews and competitions. What more could you ask for? 

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